Saturday, October 13, 2018

Two weeks in the Leeward Islands: Jerelyn’s Visit


We had an amazing two weeks with Jerelyn on Pangaea. Jerelyn and I have known each other for over 30 years and she has known Mike for almost 10 of those. We are besties from the University of Wisconsin-Madison.
We visited 4 islands in two weeks: Raiatea, Huahine, Bora Bora and Taha’a.  Each island had its own special story, but here are the highlights:
We picked up Jerelyn in our dinghy from the airport. As we were heading in her flight flew right over us and she saw us!

We sailed from Raiatea after doing a fuel and provision stop in Uturoa. We arrived in Fare mid-afternoon after a bit of a sporty sail and took the dinghy into town for a visit to the museum at the La Pita Village Hotel. We stayed for sundowners and dinner. It was a gorgeous night!


From Fare we headed to Avea Bay to wait out some weather and for Mike to get in some kiteboarding.

We did some great snorkeling in Avea Bay and decided it should be renamed Anenome Bay because of the rich supply of anenomes and anenome fish!
We sailed back to Raiatea for the evening and then on to Bora Bora the next morning. We had an amazing downwind sail all the way there, and a little boost of extra wind from a squall at the end (without getting wet!).

We spent the first day in Vaitape and did some provisioning and exploring. The next day we sailed to the southeast side of the island and stayed there for two lovely days.


We had some great snorkeling here in Bora Bora, including a drift dive off the reef that left me a little scraped and bruised (got pummeled by a couple big waves). Ouch.
The next day we decided to head back to the other side of Bora Bora and were able to get a mooring outside of the famous Bloody Mary’s.

Since we were in the neighborhood, we thought we ought to go for happy hour and dinner at Bloody Mary’s.


After a day of biking and exploring the shops in Bora Bora, we headed to Taha’a.

Every trip we take we buy matching souvenirs. This trip was a silk wrap with a Tahitian pearl from Tahia. The color is lagoon and very true to its name.

Jerelyn and I were both Hoofers at UW-Madison. Here we are showing our Badger pride with the Hoofers burgee.
Once again, we had a great sail! What made today special was a whale show just outside the pass. There were two sets of mama and calf humpbacks delighting the tourist boats. We saw the second set which was actually a mama and twins! The mama was in great spirits as we were treated to 6 breaches, a fin slap and a tail slap. It was amazing. No footage, sorry. No one dared to leave the experience to get a camera.

We arrived in Taha’a just before sunset. We sat down for a sundowner and out of the corner of my eye I saw something in the water right next to the boat. It was two manta rays! Minutes later we were visited by a hawksbill turtle! Very cool.

I woke up in the middle of the night and walked outside. The sky was clear with radiant stars and within minutes I had saw 4 shooting stars. We had some Luci lights on and I looked out in the water on the port side of the boat and the Manta Rays were swimming in th light right next to the boat. I was mesmerized by their dance. What a gift!
The next morning we did a snorkel of the coral gardens.


The gardens were beautiful! It was like snorkeling in an aquarium! Jerelyn saw an orange and brown octopus!
We set sail mid-day back to Raiatea. We had dinner reservations at the Raiatea Lodge with Kate and Alan (Itagime).
We took the dingy to dinner just in time for a spectacular sunset complete with dolphins swimming in the bay!




We returned Jerelyn to the Raiatea Airport in the dinghy for a full circle departure back to Papeete. We miss her already!
What a fabulous two weeks! Thank you, my friend!
First Mate Kate

Friday, September 28, 2018

Toau, Tuamotus

We sailed to Toau after spending a week or so in Fakarava. We needed a protected place to spend an upcoming Maramoo wind event and we wanted to see a new place.




It turned out to be a perfect place! Gorgeous and plenty of sandy beaches to walk and from which to kite.




Our friends Kate and Alan on Itajime joined us in Toau. We had a fun time exploring together!
 On one of our hikes we discovered that there were pigs on the island so we saved all of our organic scraps and brought them to the pigs on the beach. They were very happy to see us!

Mike got some kiting in, although he got a bit tossed around in the strong wind gusts.


We did have a break from the wind and were able to do some paddling.


Fun was had by all!
First Mate Kate

Monday, August 20, 2018

Fun in Fakarava: Kathy’s Visit 


My dear friend Kathy a.k.a. Mamma Goddess came to French Polynesia for a whirlwind visit! She flew into Fakarava and the adventure began.


We started out in Pakakota after a pickup from the airport from Matthieu from Pakakota Yacht Services and a drink at La Paillote.

We watched a gorgeous sunset from here.

After a stunning sunrise we sailed to the south pass. We got in a quick snorkel in the anchorage and took a walk on the beach.

We decided to go to Hirifa because the weather was cloudy and not ideal for diving the pass. We got there in time to go for a hike and have a margarita on the beach at sunset, complete with beach puppies !


The south pass of Fakarava was next on the agenda, with a drift dive or two in mind. The weather ended up cooperating beautifully; we had two stellar days to dive the pass and adjacent coral gardens. Kathy seemed pretty uneasy about diving with blacktop reef sharks but she did it!

We ended the week back at the north end of Fakarava. We had a great dinner at Chez Elda and then took Kathy to the airport in the dinghy the next day.


Thank you, Kathy! We had so much fun!
First Mate Kate

Saturday, August 4, 2018

Sail back to the Tuomotus

We escaped Papeete along with Kate and Allen on their boat "Itajime" on Tuesday and beat east to weather for four days to arrive in Tahanea yesterday. The trip started out easy with motor sailing due to light winds. By morning we had enough wind to roll out the jib and nicely sail for the day and night. The third day was trying due to strong winds and multiple squalls. We raised the storm staysail as the wind notched up to the twenty's and the seas built. The wind switched to the east which meant that we would have to send the next day tacking back and forth for the final night. We reached the pass into the motu on the fourth morning. The pass was exciting! A 7 knot current against us and 1 meter standing rollers gave our Perkins diesel a good workout. With the anchor down we both agreed that the trip was worth it. The Tuomotus are a special!

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Friday, July 13, 2018

Looking to start your own cruising adventure? We have the perfect boat for you!

One of the highlights of the cruising lifestyle is the deep friendships of other cruisers made along our travels.  These friendships continue even when we go our separate ways, cruising on to different parts of the world.

One of the first couples we met, Lola and Manny on s/v Desire, showed us the ins and outs of La Paz, MX, taught us the names of all of the dock workers and neighboring cruisers, helped us with our Spanish and generously shared their friendship.  Every time we go back to La Paz, which is now what we consider our home away from home, we reconnect with them.  Recently, they have decided to move back on land and sell Desire.

We want to share this opportunity to acquire an amazing sailboat that has been well cared for with our friends and followers.

s/v Desire


First Mate Kate

Saturday, June 30, 2018

Huahine, French Polynesia

We had planned on sailing from Huahine to the Tuamotus, but the winds and seas sounded a bit sporty to deal with as my first sail of the season. Instead, we decided to do a little exploring of Huahine.


Our Anchorage in Fare


Our “Clown Bikes”


Getting diesel and gasoline from the gas station to the dinghy to the boat. That shopping cart was very handy!


Our neighbor in the anchorage. Rumor has it you can rent it on Airbnb.

Fare is on the large island or Huahine Nui. We moved down to Avea Bay and circumnavigated Huahine Iti, the smaller island of Huahine, on our bikes.


The islands are quite hilly and mountainous, which makes them an interesting ride. 


Here is a beautiful bay between Huahine Iti looking at Huahine Nui.


We had a beautiful day for a gorgeous, scenic tour.


Including a little local art!


This is Avea Bay....looking from shore out to our anchorage from a hotel.


Simply stunning. I’m sure we will have more Huahine pics in the future.

First Mate Kate

Raiatea, French Polynesia

We have spent the last month enjoying our continued exploration of Raiatea. We left the boat here for the hurricane season but didn’t have much time to explore last season.  

Mike’s Birthday was celebrated in style at the Raiatea Lodge. We had a delicious and beautifully plated meal followed by amazing creme brûlée and chocolate lava cake with a sparkler! 




We circumnavigated first by bike (42 miles) and then by boat with our friends Tom and Sylvia on Cinnabar and their guests Joe and Lisa.

Taputapuatea is a sacred Marae that has been named a UNESCO World Heritage Site.  Tribal leaders came here for religious and social gatherings.

The crew on Cinnabar 


A ceremony site 


 A large site for sacrifices and religious gatherings.


Lisa wearing the traditional Polynesian plumeria flower behind her ear.


Pangaea and Cinnabar in the bay off the Marae.

A perfect rainbow after a morning squall.

Happy to be back in French Polynesia!

First Mate Kate