Fun in Fakarava: Kathy’s Visit

My dear friend Kathy a.k.a. Mamma Goddess came to French Polynesia for a whirlwind visit! She flew into Fakarava and the adventure began.


We started out in Pakakota after a pickup from the airport from Matthieu from Pakakota Yacht Services and a drink at La Paillote.

We watched a gorgeous sunset from here.

After a stunning sunrise we sailed to the south pass. We got in a quick snorkel in the anchorage and took a walk on the beach.

We decided to go to Hirifa because the weather was cloudy and not ideal for diving the pass. We got there in time to go for a hike and have a margarita on the beach at sunset, complete with beach puppies !


The south pass of Fakarava was next on the agenda, with a drift dive or two in mind. The weather ended up cooperating beautifully; we had two stellar days to dive the pass and adjacent coral gardens. Kathy seemed pretty uneasy about diving with blacktop reef sharks but she did it!

We ended the week back at the north end of Fakarava. We had a great dinner at Chez Elda and then took Kathy to the airport in the dinghy the next day.


Thank you, Kathy! We had so much fun!
First Mate Kate

Sail back to the Tuomotus

We escaped Papeete along with Kate and Allen on their boat "Itajime" on Tuesday and beat east to weather for four days to arrive in Tahanea yesterday. The trip started out easy with motor sailing due to light winds. By morning we had enough wind to roll out the jib and nicely sail for the day and night. The third day was trying due to strong winds and multiple squalls. We raised the storm staysail as the wind notched up to the twenty's and the seas built. The wind switched to the east which meant that we would have to send the next day tacking back and forth for the final night. We reached the pass into the motu on the fourth morning. The pass was exciting! A 7 knot current against us and 1 meter standing rollers gave our Perkins diesel a good workout. With the anchor down we both agreed that the trip was worth it. The Tuomotus are a special!

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Looking to start your own cruising adventure? We have the perfect boat for you!

One of the highlights of the cruising lifestyle is the deep friendships of other cruisers made along our travels.  These friendships continue even when we go our separate ways, cruising on to different parts of the world.

One of the first couples we met, Lola and Manny on s/v Desire, showed us the ins and outs of La Paz, MX, taught us the names of all of the dock workers and neighboring cruisers, helped us with our Spanish and generously shared their friendship.  Every time we go back to La Paz, which is now what we consider our home away from home, we reconnect with them.  Recently, they have decided to move back on land and sell Desire.

We want to share this opportunity to acquire an amazing sailboat that has been well cared for with our friends and followers.

s/v Desire

First Mate Kate

Huahine, French Polynesia

We had planned on sailing from Huahine to the Tuamotus, but the winds and seas sounded a bit sporty to deal with as my first sail of the season. Instead, we decided to do a little exploring of Huahine.

Our Anchorage in Fare

Our “Clown Bikes”

Getting diesel and gasoline from the gas station to the dinghy to the boat. That shopping cart was very handy!

Our neighbor in the anchorage. Rumor has it you can rent it on Airbnb.

Fare is on the large island or Huahine Nui. We moved down to Avea Bay and circumnavigated Huahine Iti, the smaller island of Huahine, on our bikes.

The islands are quite hilly and mountainous, which makes them an interesting ride. 

Here is a beautiful bay between Huahine Iti looking at Huahine Nui.

We had a beautiful day for a gorgeous, scenic tour.

Including a little local art!

This is Avea Bay....looking from shore out to our anchorage from a hotel.

Simply stunning. I’m sure we will have more Huahine pics in the future.

First Mate Kate

Raiatea, French Polynesia

We have spent the last month enjoying our continued exploration of Raiatea. We left the boat here for the hurricane season but didn’t have much time to explore last season.  

Mike’s Birthday was celebrated in style at the Raiatea Lodge. We had a delicious and beautifully plated meal followed by amazing creme brûlée and chocolate lava cake with a sparkler! 

We circumnavigated first by bike (42 miles) and then by boat with our friends Tom and Sylvia on Cinnabar and their guests Joe and Lisa.

Taputapuatea is a sacred Marae that has been named a UNESCO World Heritage Site.  Tribal leaders came here for religious and social gatherings.

The crew on Cinnabar 

A ceremony site 

 A large site for sacrifices and religious gatherings.

Lisa wearing the traditional Polynesian plumeria flower behind her ear.

Pangaea and Cinnabar in the bay off the Marae.

A perfect rainbow after a morning squall.

Happy to be back in French Polynesia!

First Mate Kate

Sandhill Crane Fesitval

I had always wanted to go down to Monte Vista, CO for the Sandhill Crane festival. Cranes are particularly special to me (along with most birds) thanks to my parent’s interest when I was younger. They took me to the International Crane Foundation when I was in middle school and I tried to imitate the call of the cranes. Apparently I got it on the first try, as a Siberian Crane did a mating dance for me.
Now, every time I go home to Middleton I walk through the Conservancy near my folks house with my dad to see the Sandhills. My dad swears there is a soprano “Katie Crane” that imitates my call.

Now that my sister and I both have homes in Colorado, I thought this was the time to go. My friend Kathy and her boyfriend Shawn came along, as well.
We decided to go the weekend after the official Crane Festival to miss the crowds.

We got up before sunrise and drove down to the Monte Vista Wildlife Refuge. It was a gorgeous morning.

The cranes were starting to awaken and chatter but really started vocalizing with the sunrise!


It was really something! I’m going back again next year! The only thing that would have made the weekend more special is if our dad had been with us. Maybe someday.
First Mate Kate

Mom’s 80th

I surprised my mom and flew home to Madison, WI for her 80th. I went for a jog in the conservancy every day. I just love it!

I decided to throw her a little party with our immediate family members at her favorite restaurant Captain Bill’s but she just thought the three of us were going. When she got there, the rest of the family was there!

Mom and Dad

My cousin Eric,  Aunt Lynne and Uncle John (my mom’s brother) drove down from Minneapolis.

Mom blowing out her candles.
Many thanks to my brother John and his wife Karen and my sister Ellie and her husband Alec for keeping the secret and getting everyone there on time, including Mike!
First Mate Kate